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The standard alternator charging system is relatively crude and isn't really suited to the ancient lead-acid battery technology used on vehicles (because it is relatively cheap). The best that can usually be claimed for them is they keep a fully charged battery fully charged, though many don't accomplish that well when the battery is ageing.
The high internal impedance of the battery and the even higher internal impedance of an older battery means voltage regulation isn't the best way of doing things.

Smart charging systems go some way to addressing this drawback. The Honda system measures the current consumed by the car's electrical equipment and adjusts the output of the alternator accordingly.
If the battery is maintaining a good state of charge there probably isn't much wrong with the charging system.

When the system records a fault it is best not to guess but to have the fault code read and when repaired the fault should be erased. Many logged faults don't go away by themselves.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 26, 2020


25thou or about 0.6mm. Same as any other spark plug.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 25, 2020


Ideal gap varies slightly depending on brand of spark plug - choose your brand and check in the online application catalogue for that brand. The gap is generally listed alongside the vehicle listing.

Most common reason for no start after changing a distributor cap is getting the ht leads mixed up.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 25, 2020


call a local mechanic to assist you I learnt to do 1 wire at a time so they went back where they belonged

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 25, 2020


Hi, Tom before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vtxcafe.com/threads/2005-1300r-vtx-will-just-click-after-with-new-battery.85443/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MlY-0L50x2c
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/722750/Honda-Vtx1300s.html#product-VTX1300R
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://owners.honda.com/assets/ownerlink/model/own_man/powersports/2004/2004_vtx1300c.pdf

2005 Honda VTX... | Answered on Jul 23, 2020


Hi, Saul before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, look for, corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-93/f2-turn-signal-problem-i-need-help-108388/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ob4JWFQ6aTc
https://www.cyclechaos.com/images/9/90/Honda_CBR600F2_91-94_Service_Manual.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owning_a_honda/owners_manuals/motorcycles/CBR600F-1994.pdf

Honda... | Answered on Jul 23, 2020


What is the mileage? Is it a single cylinder or multi cylinder misfire?

If high mileage and single cylinder misfire, it could be a compression issue.

Are there DTCs other than missfire?

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 21, 2020


None of those codes have anything to do with the EGR system
It means you have misfire issues.
If petrol engine, replace plugs, check the coils and injectors.
Diesel engine could be injectors.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 20, 2020


Check power to fan with volt meter.
Supply power to fan to check If fan works.
Check for OBD codes.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 17, 2020


I don't know but if it was my car I would be happy if it idled 7 - 900 rpm.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 17, 2020


I'm assuming all the door locks work, (lock and unlock). I know it's a silly sounding suggestion but have you tried going to the passenger side and reaching across the vehicle? When you work the handle does it feel like its trying? Is it still spring loaded? Or is it just loose and floppy? The more common reason for a door handle to fail is one of the linkages inside the door panel has broken. Most of the connectors are plastic so they can snap. On a vehicle this new It could be a linkage thats just worked loose. You'll have to strip the whole door card off the inside of the door to hunt out whats going on. It'll probably cost you the skin off at least one knuckle doing this.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 16, 2020


The owner's manual will show you what fuse is for the AC. You can find a manual here: Owner Manual 2000 Honda Accord Sedan Honda Owners Site It has one for the sedan and one for the coupe. For a video of how to change the fuse, go here: Interior Fuse Box Location 1998 2002 Honda Accord 2000 Honda Accord EX...

2000 Honda... | Answered on Jul 11, 2020


Craig if you have a 4 door model it should be along the frame on the drivers side right even with the read door. If not it should be located on the drivers side along the frame in front of the rear axle. Hope that helps you.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 10, 2020


Sounds like it may have a fuel restriction. Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Look for damaged fuel lines or a line that is close to an exhaust system. Possible a fuel pump going out. Does it do this when you are low on fuel and not when the tank is full? If so then the pump is overheating because the fuel is too low and not helping to cool the pump.

Honda... | Answered on Jul 09, 2020


Hi, Michael it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads, etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component, etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/16-fi-light-how-to-read-error-codes/
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=313667
https://www.carlsalter.com/all-motorcycle-manuals.asp
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://powersports.honda.com/downloads/owners-manuals

Honda... | Answered on Jul 08, 2020

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