Check the drain line by looking from the back of the refrigerator and make sure it is running into the drain pan. Also check to make sure the drain line isnt stopped up or the pan is over flowing with water. If That checks ok if you have an ice maker and water dispenser you will have a water line hooked to the back of fridge, make sure it isnt leaking at connection then it runs up through the side of the door to the ice maker. Also after the ice makes it fills a trough with water maker sure that isnt pulled out and the water is pouring down. Most common thing is if you have moved the fridge lately the drain line got moved and isnt draining in pan just pouring onto floor. Most of the time it is a drain related issue.
Side-by-side refrigerators typically have a defrost system that automatically defrosts the freezer periodically. The freezer stops cooling to turn on the defrost heater, but should resume cooling after about an hour. If the timer fails, the freezer will never defrost and ice will continue to build up on the coils, stopping all air glow over the coils. This will prevent the freezer from cooling properly and it will give the impresdion that it's failing. Only the freezer cools, the air is circulated into the refrigerator and cools it (only less so) which gives thd appearance that it's working properly (except it's probably not cooling to the proper temperature of ~40° F.).
The fix is to replace the defrost timer. If you can locate its location on your unit, it usually involves unscrewing and unplugging the old unit and installing the new one. You will need you brand and model number when you get a new one.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.
1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment.