Question about Bosch Refrigerators
Here is a possible fix I used on a different brand. Unplug your fridge and let it completely thaw. Sometimes drains and controls get frozen from condensation and auto defrost drains also freeze up. Make sure you have some towels to soak up any possible flooding as the catch tray may overflow. Your food should be put into cooler to stop it from thawing. This will take 5 - 6 hours. Good luck!
Posted on Apr 29, 2019
I had the same problem with my LRFC25750 and have finally figured out what's happening! The water that is pooling and freezing on the bottom of the freezer is definitely coming from the defrost cycle. It is pooling inside the freezer compartment because the drain inside the back of the freezer intended to carry the defrost water down to the external evaporator tray underneath is blocked with ice. As a result, the defrost water from the coils overflows the collector under the coils and runs down the inside back of the freezer, pools on the bottom, and re-freezes when the cycle is over. this continues until there's so much ice on the bottom that the water from next defrost cycle runs out on the floor. The "easy" solution is to unplug the unit and let it completely melt out (this could take 24-36 hours). I couldn't wait, so I removed the freezer drawers and their tracks and pulled out the back panel inside the freezer -- saw the ice in the collector and blocking the drain and I melted it away with hot water and verified that water could now flow down to the external evaporator tray. Unless you want to do this, I'd say give it a good 24-36 hours for all the ice to melt away. I think it all started when we left the freezer door ajar for a whole day and probably had a lot of frost build-up on the coils. The next defrost cycle was not enough to clear all the frost and things began to build up from there. Once the drain is frozen, though, you're finished -- the defrost heater doesn;t reach down that far and you have to melt it down completely or it will continue to leak forever. I've heard that you can get a drain heater to ensure that the drain never freezes over or at least so that it is sure to clear with each defrost cycle. I'll post an update if I locate one.
Posted on Sep 03, 2007
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
check the water valve on the back of the ref. it sends water to the ice maker and water in the door one can work and the other one not
Posted on Apr 30, 2008
I would suggest not buying a KitchenAid. I have the same problem with my ice maker. Have had nothing but problems with every KitchenAid product that I have ever owned. I will never purchase another KitchenAid product.
All of there appliances are second rate. That is "The KitchenAid Difference"
Posted on Feb 18, 2008
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