RVs - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You could try contacting Forest River RV manufacturing, but many wiring changes are made on the assembly line.

RVs | Answered 7 hours ago

Fresh water drains should go directly onto the ground, not into another tank. I'd think a previous owner made the modification you describe. I'd correct it and allow fresh water tank drain go onto the ground.

RVs | Answered 7 hours ago


RVs | Answered on Apr 16, 2019

Hello, Joyce.

First thing time discuss is getting the same make and model, if possible, to prevent excessive fabrication work and so you do not have holes in your exterior wall. Other things tio consider are replacing the entire awning or maybe just a few components. If the arms are still on good condition, consider replacing the motor and aching fabric instead. This could save you a lot of time, money and headaches. If you can replace just the fabric and motor, you will need to remove the motor completely and get the measurement of the fabric length. Take them to your camper store so they can hemp make sure you get the correct replacements. There are several fabrics available you choose from and different brands and types of motors. Having the motor on hand and the length of the fabric will let them find exactly what you need.

To remove the motor, first thing to do is DISCONNECT the power to the awning. Pulling out the fuse will do this safely without having to shut off everything. If the awning is extended, this will make the removal easier. Either way, you will most likely need a ladder and a few basic hand tools to remove it. Depending on the brand and age, the screws will be a star patterns (torx) or cross tip phillips. There may be anywhere between 5 to 7 screws. Look for 2 or on the issue case to open it up, then a few more to be able to remove the disk motor. Take a picture of the wiring to make sue you know how to reconnect it on the new one. Once you have a new motor, reverse the order to reinstall.

Regarding the fabric, there will be a small screw on each end of the slide plate that need to be removed. On the awning arms, remove the cap on the opposite end of the motor assembly to be able to open the slide out area. If you have a 2nd person to help, it will be much easier. While one person pulls the fabric out from the mounting plate on the camper, the other person should also pull from the tube section, EVENLY. Installing the new one is simple, just reverse order again and slide ends while leaving excess rubber rib in tact. Once in position, insert the screws into the plate and cut off the excess rubber rib.

RVs | Answered on Apr 16, 2019

Best to take it to a dealer/repair place to secure it correctly

RVs | Answered on Apr 16, 2019

There is no 180 model I can find. The 190 model is about 3300 lbs.

RVs | Answered on Apr 16, 2019

it would probably run bckwards

RVs | Answered on Apr 15, 2019

When repairing soft spots you need to work on top and bottom simply go under the rv where the area is to be replaced and look for pipes and wiring

RVs | Answered on Apr 13, 2019

contact manufacturer tech support they will send you a PDF file

RVs | Answered on Apr 10, 2019


RVs | Answered on Apr 09, 2019

Hey Steve,

I have experience with repairing my own slide out. Without knowing what slide out you have exactly, its tough to trouble shoot, but here is what I know and it may help you.

Nearly ALL slide out components are made by the company Lippert Components. They can be very helpful and are willing to help you solve your problem. I am not affiliated with them, I've just had excellent experience in dealing with them for repairs. Here's a link to their customer service page:

If you have the book for your RV, try to find the section about your slide out. Many slide outs have a manual override. Mine does not, but many do. Learn how to use it in case you get in a jam. Because of the gear reduction on the motor, they are very hard to move by merely pushing on the slide out itself.

Your slide out will have a "brain". That module will have flashing lights that give you a trouble code. Usually that trouble code is printed on the outside of the box. Mine is located in one of the outside storage compartments, upside down, a real pain to get into a take a look at. You will need to do this though when/if you call Lippert for help.

By the sounds of it one of your motors is going out on you. They're very small 12v motors that have one heck of gear reduction on them. Your only source, as far as I can tell, for a replacement is from Lippert. My slide out was doing the exact same thing as yours.

If I was you, I would give them a call. They will be able to guide you in solving your problem and they're happy to do it. I hope this was at least a little bit helpful and you can get your RV back on the road.



RVs | Answered on Apr 08, 2019

If you have more than one switch to turn the pump on/off, it most likely has a multiplex electric controller. This may be bad and need replacing. The water heater should have a fuse in house fuse panel so check it. If the fuse is good, then check for 12v in at the water heater.

RVs | Answered on Apr 05, 2019

You don't say what type of RV you have, so my answer is generic. Most RVs have two battery systems, "house battery" for living amenities (fridge, interior lights, furnace, water pump, etc.) and a second "chassis battery" for driving functions (engine start, exterior lights, wipers, etc.) Ground connections are generally the same, the positive terminal is never cross-connected between the two battery systems except when a charging voltage is detected.

RVs | Answered on Apr 05, 2019

The water connection is typically on the driver's side outside wall. You most likely have a valve that switches between "Fill" (a ~60 gal. water tank) and "City pressure" that allows the water pump to be turned off. If the water fill isn't visible on the sidewall, check in the wet bay for the connection.

RVs | Answered on Apr 05, 2019

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