Yamaha Motorcycle Repair Questions, Solutions and Tips - Vr2020

Yamaha Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Stuart before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Yamaha vity 125 starting problem
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2010 Yamaha Vity | Answered Yesterday


Have you check the Engine Control Unit? Fuel injection systems are generally electronic and are controlled by a small computer. If it fails it would stop the engine running. The fact that the bike starts with externally supplied fuel would point towards an ECU problem.

2006 Yamaha FZ6 | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Amadeus and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
ZUMAFORUMS NET View topic Scoot turned off while riding Why
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2004 Yamaha Zuma... | Answered 3 days ago


Hi, Sergey it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence such as adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, stolen and cut ignition wires, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM such as parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or something very minor, like your speedometer sensor, is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. The engine got wet in places where it doesn't like to get wet.
6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.
7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2010 Yamaha... | Answered 3 days ago


Hi, Darren and the usual suspects are:
1. Inlet system air leak.
2. Enrichener valve not seated or leaking.
3. Damaged or restricted fuel tank vent system.
4. Restricted fuel supply tract.
5. Dirty or damaged air cleaner element.
6. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
7. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
8. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
9. Loose or plugged main jets or passages.
10. Improper float level.
11. Accelerator pumps inoperative.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Top end loss of power YAHAMA FAZER 600 SYNCHRONIZACJA Yamaha FZS6W Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha YAMAHA FZS600 Owner Manual

2003 Yamaha FZS... | Answered 3 days ago


Carburetor needs removing and cleaning, especially the main jet.

Yamaha... | Answered 3 days ago


Amazon, eBay, Haynes or other fine retailers. Nothing free on that model. I rode one of those in the UK on green lanes :>)

service manual for 1979 Yamaha XT500 Enduro Google Search

Yamaha... | Answered on Oct 13, 2018


Hi, Melvin for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2001 Yamaha XVS... | Answered on Oct 12, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2007 Yamaha AG... | Answered on Oct 11, 2018


Fuel probly goin to oneside..happens on lowtanks. Carb cud hav issues from age evn tho its not ridden much. Buy a clymer manual

2009 Yamaha... | Answered on Oct 10, 2018


Yes, use 10W Fork Oil

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/bike-datenbank/yamaha-tt-600-r/dj01/0868

and the amount

about 615ml but more importantly oil level 160mm from top of fork when compressed without spring

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Here is your Service Manual

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Here is a video on a Front Fork Rebuild. I just watched it all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaiqdT41Yr4

Yamaha... | Answered on Oct 09, 2018


The Road Star holds a TOTAL of 5 Litres/5.3 US Quarts of oil, but you don't use that much unless you strip the engine down.
Normally you would use:
4.3USqt/4.1L if you change the oil AND the oil filter
3.9USqt/3.7L if you change only the oil and NOT the oil filter


http://www.roadstarmagazine.com/yamaha-road-star-faq/#8

Yamaha... | Answered on Oct 09, 2018


Do You have a test light or a multimeter? If so, how are you with diagnostics. I can walk you through testing this circuit if you want. Is both the high beam and low beam out? Basically you need to confirm (+) Batt. power and (-) ground at the head light first. After testing the headlight wiring then move to the left handle bar. To the Dimmer switch and access the contacts inside. This may not be easy but ask first if your not sure. Burnt out bulb and worn out dimmer switch is the most common failure. Only testing will confirm it.

Yamaha... | Answered on Oct 08, 2018


Hi, Charles for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2009 Yamaha V... | Answered on Oct 08, 2018


Hi, Phillip and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables improperly adjusted, pinched or need lubrication.
2. Idle adjusting screw needs to be backed off.
4. Air fuel mixture adjusted too lean start with 2 full turns.
5. Intake system air leak.
6. Fast idle choke ramp is not releasing.
7. Faulty automatic choke.
8. Broken throttle return spring.
9. Damaged diaphragm or slide.
10. Faulty MAP, TPS, ATS, O2, sensors or wiring/connector.
11. Multiple carburetors not in sync.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.r1-forum.com/forums/103-02-03-r1-mechanical-help/328779-2002-r1-high-idle-once-warm.html
https://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-maintenance-technical/24833-high-idle-problem.html
Yamaha YZF R1P Service Manual Page 3
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2002 Yamaha... | Answered on Oct 08, 2018

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