Motorcycles - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/151572/Sharp-Aquos-Lc-20s4u.html

Possibly the manual, but not for a motorcycle - LC 20S4U

Motorcycles | Answered on Feb 13, 2019


I changed the category, as I believe this is a Moto Guzzi Eldorado?

See the link for clues in removing the tank. Videos as well.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2016+moto+guzzi+Eldorado+tank+removal&safe=off&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiy9J21xLfgAhUBwlkKHelrBoEQ_AUICSgA&biw=1366&bih=626&dpr=1

there is a text file in this thread that will give you an idea

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/gas-tank-removal.18220

It goes without saying that you don't want your tank full of gas to do this because it's HEAVY and BULKY to move.

Remove the parts I list here and you will safely and securely be able to remove and replace the tank without causing any damage to other parts of your motorcycle.

To properly remove the tank, do the following:

1. Remove the beauty cover from the lower part of the fuel tank. There are 4 screws which hold this in place. 2 are on each side of the bike. After removing the screws, lift off the beauty cover and set it safely aside.

2. Remove the air deflectors from each side of the bike. There are 2 screws holding this part in place; 1 upper and 1 lower.

3. Remove the side panels. There are 3 connectors you must remove. One in the front of the motorcycle under the lights, 1 at the bottom of the side panel, and 1 at the rear of the side panel.

4. Time to disconnect the hoses from the tank. The hose on the left, is the drain from the filler neck in the fuel bung. It's what carries spilt gas out of the filler neck and sends it out the back of the motorcycle via a drain. It is simply held on by compression and can easily be popped off. The center shows the fuel pump electrical connector. Again, gently, lift up on the locking tab catch and remove this plug. The hose on the right with the clamp, is the principal venting hose. With a pair of dykes, gently squeeze the connector together and it will spring open. You can then remove the hose from the tank.

The connector in the lower center, is the pressurized fuel line that so many people seem to break. DON'T PANIC. If you do exactly as I tell you, it will come off so easily and will not even get close to breaking. There is no need to relieve the pressure in the line. It's not that much. The secret of how to remove this connector is so simple. With your right hand, press the connector gently in towards the tank, while at the same time with your left hand, press the black locking collar also towards the tank. You are pressing them both towards the tank. Now, while holding the black locking collar down, gently reverse your force on the fuel connector and remove it from the tank. If your line is pressurized, it will burp a small quantity of gas, so please, don't be smoking or have an ignition source anywhere nearby and also don't have your face right down there unless you enjoy gas in the eye!

I have made a video of me disconnecting and reconnecting this connector. Please look at it and it will become totally clear how to do it.

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5. Take a piece of string and loop together the fuel line, the electrical connector, and the main vent hose you just removed and tie them off towards the back of the motorcycle so that they are completely held out of your way.

6. Unscrew the bolt in the front center of the tank.

7. Now, remove the 2 bolts (1 on each side) at the rear of the fuel tank.

8. The tank is now able to be lifted off of the motorcycle and carefully set aside on a nice soft towel, out of the way.


That's it. Good Luck. There are photos in the Charcoal Canister Removal section showing each of these steps should you need photos.

You will need a new simple hose clamp for the spring clamp you removed unless you have the special tool to re-seat the original clamp.

Moto Guzzi... | Answered on Feb 13, 2019


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Vespa... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019


Hi, Peter if you have a dash or instrument light that is out and you have confirmed that the bulb is good then you need to do some quick diagnostics all you need is a test light and a wiring diagram usually found in the back of your service or owners manual.
1. Make sure your battery is fully charged with "CLEAN" and "TIGHT" connections and the instrument light fuse is not blown.
2. Inspect the bulb socket for corrosion and clean as necessary, a spray can of electrical contact cleaner and compressed air works the best.
3. Confirm your test light is working properly by connecting one end to the battery negative post and touching battery positive post with the sharp probe, the test light should illuminate.
4. With the ignition turned on to confirm you have power to the bulb socket by connecting your test light to battery negative or ground and probe the center contact, the test light should illuminate if not you need to check the integrity of the switch or sending unit the light represents, if that is ok then you have a short in the wiring between the component and the light bulb, if all is ok proceed to the next step.
5. Confirm you have a good ground to the light bulb socket by connecting the test light to battery positive and probe any metal part of the socket housing, the test light should illuminate, if not you need to find the short and repair as necessary.
6. Inspect the integrity of the spring loaded positive contact insulation tab by pushing against it with your test light to see if it goes down and springs back fully to it's operating position again contact cleaner and compressed air works best to restore proper function.
7. If your bike has a lot of mileage the vibration can cause bulbs to become loose in the socket by wearing down the soldered contact thus losing spring pressure from the tab and eventually stop making contact this can be fixed by replacing the bulb or putting a drop of solder on the worn out end to ensure contact.
8. If all of your dash lights are out but are good then you most likely have a faulty connection to the dash wiring harness, inspect the connector for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.zrxocboard.com/board/archive/index.php/t-51785.html
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/mechanics-corner/143666-how-do-sensors-oil-pressure-water-temperature-work.html
https://www.ioffer.com/i/01-07-kawasaki-zrx1200r-zrx1200s-zrx1200-service-manual-576278288
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://ownersmanuals2.com/kawasaki/zrx1200-2003-owners-manual-68900

2004 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019


Hi, Howard and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at the ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/vintage-motorcyle-info/151482-kawasaki-f11-no-spark.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uggJMnuexMc
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/vintage-motorcyle-info/157966-1974-f11-service-manual.html
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kawasaki KX 250... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019


Hi, Joanne the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.bikedekho.com/advisory/how-to-fix-a-stuck-ignition-switch.htm
https://repairpal.com/symptoms/car-key-wont-turn
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/796749/Yamaha-T135se.html#product-Sniper
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://www.scoop.it/topic/wvegqux/p/4099263288/2018/07/11/yamaha-sniper-150-manual

Yamaha... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019


Hi, Peter for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1995 Yamaha XJ... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019


Hi, Ron the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://oem-cycle.com/BikeIdentification.shtml

Yamaha... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019


Hi, Richard you timing is off and needs to be adjusted, for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/902381-cr250-running-backwards/
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https://www.manualslib.com/manual/581624/Honda-Qr50.html

Honda... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019


Hi, Bush for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day .https://www.google.com/search?q=Wiring+diagram+for+Honda+CB400+Super+Four+Hyper+VTEC+Revo+2013&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwib76L7jrbgAhUrxVkKHa9IAWUQsAR6BAgAEAE&biw=1366&bih=626
http://www.classiccycles.org/1852/597922.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/790926/Honda-Cb400t.html#product-CB400A
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https://www.manualslib.com/manual/677496/Honda-Cb400.html#product-CB400%20A

Honda Cb 400... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019


Hi, Franz after careful deliberation 4 out 5 Honda Gods give this one a thumbs up, but just to be on the safe side you should give your local dealer's parts/service department a call to confirm.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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https://www.twowheelparts.nl/en/manuals/ownersmanuals/honda/1159381/honda-owners-manual-vf400f.html

1984 Honda VF... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019


Hi, Mar it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also for 2003 and older models carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes and reduce the risk of being stranded or towed also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM like parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your speedometer sensor is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. The engine got wet where it didn't like to get wet.
6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.
7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/63458/my-honda-cb-1300-fi-2017-check-engine-indicator-light-stays-on
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/63458/my-honda-cb-1300-fi-2017-check-engine-indicator-light-stays-on
https://www.perthstreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=118040
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/677745/Honda-Cb1300.html

2005 Honda CB... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019


Hi, Steve for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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https://ownersmanuals2.com/honda/gl1500c-valkyrie-1997-owners-manual-60951
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1999 Honda F6 C... | Answered on Feb 12, 2019

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