Motorcycles - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
2. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
3. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
4. Pilot/slow fuel jet clogged.
5. Faulty accelerator pump.
6. Float level too low.
7. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
8. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
9. Fuel line to the carburetor kinked or pinched.
10. Fuel filter clogged.
11. Intake manifold leak.
12. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
15. Multi carburetors not in sync.
16. Faulty fuel pump or internal fuel line has pinholes.
17. Fuel injectors clogged or faulty.
18. Faulty throttle position sensor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Idles fine but dies upon throttle
http://viragotechforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31891
http://vintagedirtbiker.com/photos/Motorcycles%20and%20Projects/Manuals/Yamaha/Yamaha%20Xv%20250%20Virago%20Manual.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
Yamaha VIRAGO XV250S Owner Manual

1995 Yamaha Xv... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Kyle engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is the air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components has been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in the process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://netrider.net.au/threads/2010-hyosung-gt650-misfire-and-stalling-when-hot.111646
bogging losing power help please
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2006 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Phillip before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Hyosung Gt650R battery not staying charged
How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2005 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Hyosung, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1018449/Hyosung-Aquil-Gv650.html?page=120
How to replace motorcycle water pump chain tensioner
How To Rebuild An ATV Motorcycle Water Pump
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2005 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Michelle and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.flickr.com/groups/501290@N25/discuss/72157607336392431/
http://korider.com/index.php?topic=29531.0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSky1ZfHdhA
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2005 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Natal and the usual suspects are:
1. Low coolant level.
2. Restricted radiator air flow.
3. Faulty thermostat.
4. Coolant pump or fans inoperative.
5. Vent hose crimped.
6. The air in the coolant and needs bleeding.
7. Engine idling too long or bike moving too slow.
8. Coolant too old needs to be replaced.
9. Faulty temperature sensor, wiring or connector.
10. Radiator veins clogged or corroded needs repair
11. Cooling system leak.
12. Ignition timing retarded.
13. Spark plug heat range too high.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://korider.com/index.php?topic=23356.0
Overheating Help troubleshoot my bike
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2005 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Hyosung, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?sa=X&q=Wiring+diagram+2006+Hyosung+GT650R&tbm=isch&source=univ&ved=2ahUKEwiSlMLIpPLiAhUNj1kKHRyCCmYQsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
GT650R EFI Wiring diagram
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2006 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Bruce the following is a systematic procedure for diagnosing fuel pump issues designed to keep "DRACHMA" to a minimum. If you need parts, check with Amazon and eBay first to keep costs down.
1. If your pump does not turn on check the pump fuse and relay and all wiring including connectors for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
1. Normal fuel pump pressure is 3-5 PSI.
2. Check any rubber or plastic tubing for age-related pinholes by removing and plugging the ends that connect to the fuel valve and then turn on the ignition switch and watch for fuel streams exiting the pinholes, if any exist, replace tubing as necessary.
3. Check for a clogged a primary fuel filter that comes off the bottom of the pump to screen out big rocks and clean as necessary.
4. Check for a clogged secondary fuel filter that's outside if applicable by removing it from the system and replace it with a short splicing tube turn on the ignition switch and recheck fuel pressure if pressure increases to the normal pressure you need a new secondary filter.
5. If all the above check out OK and the pump is not functioning properly then you need a new fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29326
Gold Wing Fail and Fix Fuel Pump
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/817941/Honda-Goldwing-Gl1500.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda Goldwing GL1500 Owner Manual

1989 Honda GL... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Jonathan before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/343026-07-r6-cranks-but-wont-turn-over.html
https://www.reddit.com/r/motorcycles/comments/dp1z7/help_r6_wont_start_just_clicks_whats_wrong
Yamaha YZF R6 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
Yamaha YZF R6 Owner Manual

2008 Yamaha... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Hyosung Gt650R battery not staying charged
How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2005 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Hyosung, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://korider.com/index.php?topic=25567.0
https://www.riderchris.com/others/resetting-ecu-settings-hyosung
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2006 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. A failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen the gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from the intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.flickr.com/groups/501290@N25/discuss/72157607336392431/
http://korider.com/index.php?topic=19881.0
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2005 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Colinjill and the usual suspects are:
1. Retarded ignition timing.
2. Retarded cam timing.
3. Bent or burnt exhaust valve.
4. Massive air leak.
5. Intake manifold cracked or damaged.
6. Intake manifold seals have failed.
7. Wrong heat range spark plug.
8. Fuel delivery system running too lean.
9. Faulty Map, O2, MAF, TPS, sensors.
10. Faulty advance mechanism.
11. Faulty VOES switch.
12. Aftermarket exhaust headers tubing too thin.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://advrider.com/f/threads/2009-gsa-exhaust-glowing-red-hot.617027
https://boostatv.com/glowing-red-hot-exhaust
HYOSUNG Aquil GV650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GV 650 EFI Owner Manual

2009 Hyosung... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Waldoheraldo derestrict is a negative term rider's use to express their wish to improve performance on their bike or scooter. Depending on the country and motor vehicles laws some bikes and scooters are designed to conform with said laws and their performance is slightly lower than other countries. All vehicles in the world are designed to perform at 75-80% of their maximum potential, this ensures the longevity of the engine. Derestricting or improving performance is always possible on any vehicle but the tradeoff of engine longevity numbers go down, how much depends on the number and type of performance upgrades. Your local dealership or reputable independent shop are best equipped to provide you with technical data and willingness to comply with your needs.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to derestrict an EFI Hyosung GT650 LAMS model
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPpD3O-2O8A
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2005 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Realityboy_7 and the usual suspects are:
1. System contaminated with air that needs to be bled.
2. Damaged or contaminated master cylinder that needs a rebuild.
3. Loose, damaged, cracked, kinked, or pinched hydraulic line.
4. Hydraulic fluid not compatible with rubber components.
5. Excessive heat builds up hydraulic line routed too close to the exhaust.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Soft+rear+brake+pedal+2008+Hyosung+GT650R&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwit1b2ikfLiAhXPqFkKHYgABgsQsAR6BAgFEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://newtouringrider.com/how-to-fix-mushy-spongy-or-soft-motorcycle-brakes
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 EFI Owner Manual

2008 Hyosung... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Kungpao46 for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Hyosung, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Air-fuel+mixture+screw+location+2008+Hyosung+GV+650&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjZuvjlj_LiAhXR1lkKHbYaBtkQsAR6BAgBEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRykIaQkuFE
HYOSUNG Aquil GV650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GV 650 EFI Owner Manual

2006 Hyosung GV... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Bajaj, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Thread Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAqv0o46rrQ
https://www.bcmtouring.com/imp/Pulsar_DTSi_Workshop_Manual.pdf
https://www.globalbajaj.com/media/21423/bajaj-pulsar-150-dts-i.pdf
Bajaj Pulsar 150 DTS User Manual

2011 Bajaj... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Kaye you need "FIVE" things in order for a cylinder to run properly:
1. FUEL: in order to validate your not getting fuel spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner and hit the starter button, if it fires up and runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. Multi carb banks should be bench "SYNC"
2. SPARK: remove the spark plug and with it connected to the spark plug cable ground the threads to something metal you should see a bluish white spark if not you have a faulty spark plug, spark plug cable, ignition coil, condenser, CKP, ECM, sensor or the wiring in between.
3. COMPRESSION: you must have at least 80-100 PSI for most bikes, multi-cylinder engines should be within 10-15% of each other if not perform a leak down test you may have a burnt or bent valve or hole in the piston or broken rings.
4. CAM TIMING: confirm your timing marks are aligned to see if the cam chain or adjuster are worn out and the chain has skipped a couple of teeth.
5. IGNITION TIMING: on older bikes check to see if your points have not closed up, timing plate has not become loose and confirm with a timing light for proper retard and advance functions, on newer bikes where timing is controlled by an ECM and is nonadjustable check you CKP, TPS, MAP, O2, sensor or its counterpart for integrity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hondashadow.net/forum/72-technical-discussion/84319-1985-vt1100-not-running-one-cylinder.html
1986 honda shadow 1100 misfire
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1407522/Honda-Shadow-Vt1100.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda Shadow VT1100 Owner Manual

Honda VT 1100 C2... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Beckie for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Hyosung, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Cam+timing+marks+2004+Yamaha+Royal+Star+Venture&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwicy5CShfLiAhXss1kKHVc1BLYQsAR6BAgFEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?78990-Cam-timing-marks
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1362718/Yamaha-Royal-Star-Tour-Deluxe-Xvz13cttc.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
Yamaha Royal Star XVZ13CTV Owner Manual

2004 Yamaha... | Answered Yesterday

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