Hi, Jeff it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads, etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component, etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://netrider.net.au/threads/fi-indicator-on-gt650r-efi-2010.128437 How to read FI fault code Hyosung GV650 and GT650 HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual
Hi, Nico I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
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Hi, Lee moisture, condensation, rain, or bike washing can make the bike run sluggish, not able to rev, and misfire. Older bikes, engine configuration, and exposed electrical components are at the front of the line for acting up. During the diagnostic procedure spray Electrical Contact Cleaner on corroded wire connectors/pins/sockets etc. and apply a liberal amount of "DIELECTRIC" grease to the mating harness/wire connectors. WD40 works great for eliminating suspect areas in your quest to find the real offending gremlin.
For additional insurance you can spray a High Temp Clear Coat on the most vulnerable areas it will work like Scotch Guard does on fabric. Fabricate a rubber or plastic splash guard to deflect water coming off the front wheel getting to the front cylinder spark plugs. The design should be adequate for its purpose with the least amount of airflow restriction to cool the cylinders. The usual suspects are:
1. Air filter soaked with water.
2. Water in the fuel system gas tank and carburetors.
3. Wet ignition coil packs.
4. Spark plug boots wore out or loose allowing water to enter.
5. Spark plug cables old and cracked check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Spark plug wells filled up and drain holes clogged.
7. Water in a wire harness that has exposed open ends and have a sharp bend or crimp allowing the liquid to form its own pool of potential threats to chaffed wiring.
8. Sensitive fuel tuners and downloaded ECM remaps may get confused with the abnormal cylinder temperature difference in a V-4 engine configuration.
9. Fuel injected bikes need to have the electrical connectors removed and sprayed with contact cleaner then blown dry and checked for continuity with a test light or multimeter, then treated with Dielectric Grease.
If your bike will not run right or even start after going through the checklist, despair not, letting it sit for a couple of days in a warm environment is like an eviction notice for the Gremlins and then your bike will be back to its old self. You can speed up this process by using forced air to dry out electrical connections.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Scoot wont start after rain https://www.reddit.com/r/scooters/comments/6zioiy/moped_not_starting_fix_after_riding_in_rain http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf https://www.racingplanetusa.com/benzhou-c-1700-1.html http://www.benzhougroup.com/
Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water, etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. Your engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, the engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark grey, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkY9CF5JrijuE4BSXIxp-LcsyIz7W1Es7 http://korider.com/index.php?topic=7763.0 HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
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Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. On early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. Finally, most tail light wiring harnesses run under the rear fender held in place by spot welded clips. Worn out rear shocks or lowered suspension can bottom out causing the rear tire to come in contact with the wiring harness, rubbing the insulation off, exposing the bare metal inner core, allowing it to break or short out.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://korider.com/index.php?topic=9863.0 Replace Motorcycle Rear Brake Light Switch HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual