Question about 1988 kawasaki ZL 1000 A2 Eliminator

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1988 Kawasaki ZL 1000 A2 Eliminator top end rattle

Top end rattle at certain speeds, cam chain, guides, tensioner all new.Oil new. @

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 57,017 Answers

Hi, Paulbarton18 I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fenders---SCRAPE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
11. Gears---WHINE
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
16. Pistons---SLAP
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
18. Radiators---GURGLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
21. Relays---CLICK&BUZZ
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
25. Speedometers---bzzz
26. Starters---CLICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://advrider.com/f/threads/is-this-my-timing-chain-making-a-noise-kawasaki-zl900-eliminator.1108340
https://www.zl-oa.com/community/threads/valves.14859
DOWNLOAD ZL900 ZL1000 Eliminator ZL 900 1000 Service Repair Workshop... $15
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Z1100 Owner Manual

Posted on Sep 12, 2018

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: cam chain rattle

have a real mechanic check the timing chain guides, you may even need a new one, sometimes they stretch.

Posted on Mar 20, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: engine rattle when bike is under load

This sounds like a classic case of pre-ignition, aka detonation and engine knock. Change to premium gas and put in a set of spark plugs that are one heat range colder than stock. It is good that you are handling this before the engine destroys itself. Yes, destroys itself. That is what pre-ignition will do. Hot carbon deposits ignite the fuel before the spark plug does. This is hard on the rod, main bearings and piston. Beat on the top of a piston with a hammer. That is what your piston will quickly look like with pre-ignition.

Please rate this answer. Thanks

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

Mr BrokRench
  • 1623 Answers

SOURCE: rattle in top end

Have you adjusted the valve lash lately?
With engine COLD....
Valve Clearance Intake: 0.11 - 0.15mm ( = 0.004 - 0.006")
Valve Clearance Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (= 0.006 - 0.008")
29mm shim kits with a wide range of sizes are available from aftermarket dealers. (motion pro shim tool works great)
Also a weak valve spring will cause the valve to "float" and make a rattle noise...as well as excessive camshaft end play.
Make sure your valve train is getting proper lubrication.
Good luck....i hope this helps

Posted on May 25, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: 1976 kz 900 cam chain guide broken!!!

Tes it is Stephen.. Replacing the guide with prevent the chain from flapping and causing damage to the parts around it. Clean everything off with degresser and a strong hosr and it will be clearer to evaluate. Good Luck -Ned_

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

  • 921 Answers

SOURCE: possible cam chain tensioner on kawasaki zx636

you better chain it soon! my friend has the same bike with about same mileage as mine and now it dont sound good, i think he slipped a tooth...it idles like ****.
I went to a local dealer of mine and got his opinion about the sound and he said those are notorious for going bad... so i bought a Stock used one from a salvage place for $40 and installing only took 1/2 hour. when i inspected the oil one... it was wobbly and leaking oil bad when i compressed it, and it was chewed up on one side from 40K miles of hard riding. If you by an after market adjustable one.... i"ve read that you better know what your doing or it could cause damge if its not adjusted correctly. good luck.
can i get a feed back thanks!

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

Testimonial: "thanx for the fantastic advice! i will let you know if it works out. im sure it will. thanx again Brett"

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Hi, Tnblack32 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
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Hi, Tcornelius for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1988 Kawasaki ZL 1000 A2 Eliminator misfires


Hi, Uspumping and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
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8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor has oil in the bowl due to excessive oil in pre-mix.
14. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
15. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
16. Fuel filter clogged.
17. Old or contaminated fuel.
18. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
19. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
20. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
21. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
22. Incorrect valve timing.
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24. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
25. Incompatible performance parts.
26. The control module may be in "LIMP" mode
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Hi, Kc8cwj the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
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