Question about kawasaki ZL 900 A1 Eliminator Motorcycles
The clutch is not engaging when you pull the lever @
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch cable adjusted too tight.
2. Pressure plate center screw adjusted too tight
3. A broken clutch rod.
4. Slave cylinder piston stuck.
5. Clutch plate missing from the clutch pack.
6. Clutch plates have worn past minimum specifications.
7. Clutch plates crystallized due to incompatible oil.
8. Broken transmission shafts or gears.
9. Rear drive belt or chain broke.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Kawasaki ZL900 ZL1000 Eliminator 1985 1986 1987 Service Manual Repair... $15
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Posted on Aug 04, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I recently installed CRG levers on our 696. No boot to fiddle with on this model. You can see the Allen key on the back of the lever perch from the outside or bar end. Simply adjust the Allen screw in/out with an Allen socket and ratchet to a range of positions then check clutch engagement and drag via a few test starts. Too far one direction and the clutch hangs up while too far the other way can give you an off/off switch lacking in full engagement that is hard on the gearbox. Conservatively set after 15 minutes of adjusting and testing resulted in an incredible reduction in the distance that my wife had to reach her tiny hands. She was extremely pleased as this completely addressed her only real complaint and made it much easier to ride. I did take the more expensive route with the Termi cans, getting a bit of a break from my local dealer at about $1250. The upside I found was that there really is no need for the dealer to install the cans because re-mapping wasn't necessary as it was with my 1098. If you are capable of unbolting your gas tank (a gazillion Allen screws on the tank covers and three bolts on the tank) and have a spare set of hands available to hold it so you don't have to undo fuel lines it is fairly simple. It's a good idea to take the tank covers off so you can see where everything is hiding. While you are under there with the battery disconnected I recommend installing a battery charger pigtail so you can easily plug in a trickle charger for the off-season. I spent maybe two hours - less time than on the fender eliminator. Again as I found putting Termi cans on my1098 the 696 loses the irritating leanness, starts much easier (fast idle no longer necessary) and runs much cooler. Plus it's all covered under warranty. With the removable sound deadener inserts you have a much nicer sound in your choice of "mellow" and "heavy metal". In my mind it now sounds like a Duc is supposed to sound. One trick on the install: the new CPU caused my dash to switch to EU (km instead of miles). There is an excellent detailed thread on this site that shows how to change back to US settings. Takes about two minutes.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
SOURCE: Wire clutch adjustment
You should adjust the cable at the handlebars until it has loads of play and hardly moves the cable when you use the lever, then adjust the same cable at the gearbox end until it comes back into acceptable range with correct amount of play, then tighten locknut.
This is just taking up normal wear in the clutch. Note as guzzi clutches wear you get a clanking vibration noise from them at idle, its normal.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
SOURCE: clutch adjustment
Sounds like time for an oil change. Dirty, gritty oil is causing the clutch plates to grab. Change the oil filter along with the oil. Ride the bike fifty miles or so then change the oil again. No new filter this time. Doing this will flush out the dirty oil.
The bike is 10 years old. It is probably time, (or past time), to replace the clutch cable if yours is not hydraulic. Most cables never seem to get lubricated. The oil and the cable are low cost items and you can't go wrong in doing the service.
Please rate this solution. Thanks Stacy!
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
Maybe, and maybe not. If it is a problem with the master cylinder, then it could be bleeding back into the reservoir.
If it will not pump up and pressurize, and there are no signs of a leak, then you need to look at the master cylinder.
Posted on May 11, 2009
go to this http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-rt1-19701971_model8356/partslist/A-09.html and then click on "view big image", this will give you a diagram of the clutch etc,, the adjustment (No. 26) may need looking at, or (No.11,12,) have broken.Basically you turn 26 in (clockwise) untill you feel light resistance then back off 1/2 turn (been years since i worked on one of these!) this should give you freeplay, have you just got the bike?, and do you think it has been stripped lately(ie the clutch). PS I am not affiliated with the web site i offered above, just a handy reference for you maybe? cheers
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
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