Question about 2001 Suzuki GSX 1300 R Hayabusa
My 2001 Hayabusa temp. Gauge stuck on hot. And won't start.. Already did troubleshooting Checked the engine run switch. Kickstand up... Has fluids ... Cycles fuel pump on but temp gauge goes back to hot after self-check @
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Grounded temperature light/gauge circuit.
2. Faulty thermostat temperature sensor.
3. Faulty cylinder head heat sensor.
4. Faulty thermostat.
5. Faulty light or gauge.
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Chec temp gauge reading high Busa problems
Engine temp gauge
Suzuki GSX1300R Manual
Posted on Oct 11, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You would be best to visit a good reliable mechanic, the bike not starting is one thing but the temp gauge is another and you could have a serious short, better safe than sorry
Posted on Mar 23, 2010
Have your ignition switch checked. The problem I had with mine wasthat it will turn over but will not start. I had my ignition switch changed and it has been starting every since.
Posted on May 27, 2011
gizzer 1.0, I am haveing that same concern I would like to know this to, I also thought it was ckp, that let the ecm know the position of the crank fire order and spark, also cut off momentary with killing the enginealso missing one or two cylinders so reverlution during cruise also gos away and comes back on it own gas milage gose down during this perioed, when runs good , it is smooth! I would like to know.
Posted on Sep 14, 2011
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Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...
Did your heater work before your work?
Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?
If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn
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