Question about 2011 Yamaha PW80
Clutch does not disengage properly. You can lift up on the gear lever and the clutch stays engaged, makes for very clunky shifting.
Hi, Pigdog1 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
PW50 clutch adjustment
how to replace motorcycle clutch
YAMAHA PW80 Owner Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha PW80 Owner Manual
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Posted on May 10, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Bleed your slave cylinder on the sprocket cover and refill the hydraulic fluid. If you have any leaks you will get air in the system and it will not fully disengage the clutch. As for the 750, they have cable clutches and you just need to adjust the slack of the cable.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
hey dude,, just thought id come in and give u some tips or 3,, i take it when u pull clutch lever in, and try and change gear it feels like your foot will snap b4 it goes in gear,, if that makes sense,, firstly mate,is to make sure the clutch cable slides freely ,easest way is to take cable off and just grab 1 end and make sure it isnt sticky,, if so dip one end of the cable in a bit of old oil ,,whilst holdin the other end ,pull and push the cable inner, this will **** up a bit of lubricant inside the cable ,, keep doin this each end till free to move, ,,next step if the cables ok,,, and may need help if u dont no,drain the oil out,,and as u r sat on the bike is to remove the clutch casing on the right hand side of the moter,where the bottom end of the cable goes,remove the casing being carefull not damage the gasket,,then u will see clutch plates and friction plates housed,, undo the 7 or 8 spring loaded bolts carefully take the first fibre plate out then metal friction plate then another fibre plate and so on,, wen u take the 1st plate out place that on the bench ,stacking each plate on top of one another, cause they have to go back in as they came out,,wen out,,u need a piece of wet n dry paper ,or fine emery,,and just wipe round both sides of the fibre plates taking the shine off them,as u put them back in,, put casing back on with a decent gasket,, oil back in cable on, make sure cable has no free play on the lever so wen u r about to pull lever in it bite straight away,, start her up, warm it up and try it,,any probs still il eat my shoe,, take care m8
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
SOURCE: 1st gear issues
How do I put this? Yes, you have a bent shift fork. And, yes, they can get bent in a fall, a dump, a drop or whatever terminology is used. The fork engages into a collar on a gear that slides left and right, (slider gear). Large "pins" called "dogs" are cast into the side of the gear. The dogs engage into holes in the side of the gear you are shifting into. Question: What happens if the bike drops on the clutch side and the shift lever is forced down, moving the slider gear to engage first gear even though the holes in the side of first gear are not lined up with the dogs on the slider gear? "You get a bent shift fork" is the correct answer. The force of the shifter lever moving the shift fork into the solid parts of first gear, (not lining up with the holes), is easily great enough to bend a fork. That pressure has got to go somewhere.
The repair means removal of the engine and a complete tear down of the engine/gearbox. The replacement of the bad fork is a given. But I suggest you do some preventative maintenance now, while the engine is apart anyway. Replace the sprocket shaft left bearing and seal, both crankshaft bearings and seals, shift shaft seal and the water pump seals. These are pretty low cost items and replacing them will mean you have pretty much rebuilt the engine. Have the dealer check the shift shaft to be sure it does not now have a bend in it.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Go to this site and you can download a free PDF service manual.
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp Most of the manuals are in English but some are not. There is no way to be sure without doing the download. You can always delete it if in a foreign language.
By the way, you can click on an experts name and see that persons profile.
Best wishes, tombones49 Please top rate this solution. Thanks!
Posted on Jun 07, 2009
Sounds like the bike has been doing wheeles and burnouts. As the clutch plates wear the cable needs adjusting. You have reached the end of the actuating cam. New plates are your best bet.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
I would be more concerned with the stuck gear than the clutch, but we will start with the clutch.
The push cam may be bent or deformed and the push shaft may be bent. Assuming the ball bearing is in place, the cam and rod are all that can really go wrong. The rod slides out of the left center case. You will need to loosen the springs to get the left side cover back in place. Roll the rod on a flat surface to see if it is bent. I fear a bent shift fork is causing the gearbox to be stuck in third. Fix the clutch and then post a comment to get back to me.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
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