Question about 2011 Yamaha PW80

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2011 Yamaha PW80 clutch adjustment

Clutch does not disengage properly. You can lift up on the gear lever and the clutch stays engaged, makes for very clunky shifting.

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  • Yamaha Master
  • 53,394 Answers

Hi, Pigdog1 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
PW50 clutch adjustment
how to replace motorcycle clutch
YAMAHA PW80 Owner Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha PW80 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on May 10, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: 1100 wierd clutch disengage problem

Bleed your slave cylinder on the sprocket cover and refill the hydraulic fluid. If you have any leaks you will get air in the system and it will not fully disengage the clutch. As for the 750, they have cable clutches and you just need to adjust the slack of the cable.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

tellme2
  • 137 Answers

SOURCE: '95 Yamaha YZ 125 clutch - stays in gear when clutch is pulled in

hey dude,, just thought id come in and give u some tips or 3,, i take it when u pull clutch lever in, and try and change gear it feels like your foot will snap b4 it goes in gear,, if that makes sense,, firstly mate,is to make sure the clutch cable slides freely ,easest way is to take cable off and just grab 1 end and make sure it isnt sticky,, if so dip one end of the cable in a bit of old oil ,,whilst holdin the other end ,pull and push the cable inner, this will **** up a bit of lubricant inside the cable ,, keep doin this each end till free to move, ,,next step if the cables ok,,, and may need help if u dont no,drain the oil out,,and as u r sat on the bike is to remove the clutch casing on the right hand side of the moter,where the bottom end of the cable goes,remove the casing being carefull not damage the gasket,,then u will see clutch plates and friction plates housed,, undo the 7 or 8 spring loaded bolts carefully take the first fibre plate out then metal friction plate then another fibre plate and so on,, wen u take the 1st plate out place that on the bench ,stacking each plate on top of one another, cause they have to go back in as they came out,,wen out,,u need a piece of wet n dry paper ,or fine emery,,and just wipe round both sides of the fibre plates taking the shine off them,as u put them back in,, put casing back on with a decent gasket,, oil back in cable on, make sure cable has no free play on the lever so wen u r about to pull lever in it bite straight away,, start her up, warm it up and try it,,any probs still il eat my shoe,, take care m8

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: 1st gear issues

How do I put this? Yes, you have a bent shift fork. And, yes, they can get bent in a fall, a dump, a drop or whatever terminology is used. The fork engages into a collar on a gear that slides left and right, (slider gear). Large "pins" called "dogs" are cast into the side of the gear. The dogs engage into holes in the side of the gear you are shifting into. Question: What happens if the bike drops on the clutch side and the shift lever is forced down, moving the slider gear to engage first gear even though the holes in the side of first gear are not lined up with the dogs on the slider gear? "You get a bent shift fork" is the correct answer. The force of the shifter lever moving the shift fork into the solid parts of first gear, (not lining up with the holes), is easily great enough to bend a fork. That pressure has got to go somewhere.

The repair means removal of the engine and a complete tear down of the engine/gearbox. The replacement of the bad fork is a given. But I suggest you do some preventative maintenance now, while the engine is apart anyway. Replace the sprocket shaft left bearing and seal, both crankshaft bearings and seals, shift shaft seal and the water pump seals. These are pretty low cost items and replacing them will mean you have pretty much rebuilt the engine. Have the dealer check the shift shaft to be sure it does not now have a bend in it.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Go to this site and you can download a free PDF service manual.
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp Most of the manuals are in English but some are not. There is no way to be sure without doing the download. You can always delete it if in a foreign language.


By the way, you can click on an experts name and see that persons profile.
Best wishes, tombones49 Please top rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: 92 yamaha fzr 600r clutch lever sticks and clutch slips

Sounds like the bike has been doing wheeles and burnouts. As the clutch plates wear the cable needs adjusting. You have reached the end of the actuating cam. New plates are your best bet.

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Yamaha YZ125 Clutch not disengaging

I would be more concerned with the stuck gear than the clutch, but we will start with the clutch.

02ccdb2.gif The push cam may be bent or deformed and the push shaft may be bent. Assuming the ball bearing is in place, the cam and rod are all that can really go wrong. The rod slides out of the left center case. You will need to loosen the springs to get the left side cover back in place. Roll the rod on a flat surface to see if it is bent. I fear a bent shift fork is causing the gearbox to be stuck in third. Fix the clutch and then post a comment to get back to me.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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1 Answer

HI, My Sons PW80 starts fine but will not go into gear!


Hi, Phillip you may need a proper clutch adjustment for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/2005/lit-11626-18-30_1089.pdf
https://books.google.com/books?id=ozV8-Aer4N8C&pg=PA227&lpg=PA227&dq=PW80+will+not+go+into+gear&source=bl&ots=nF1K9u-kJg&sig=GlrgkN_YQdQM_Jyc91X80WDGe_A&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi9r9mXiajNAhURFlIKHcIeCKMQ6AEITDAG#v=onepage&q=PW80%20will%20not%20go%20into%20gear&f=false

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


Jun 14, 2016 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

1st and 2nd gear keep jumping out of gear


You may want to make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted. At the clutch lever on the handlebars, pull back the rubber cover over the end of the cable where it goes into the lever. You'll find a round lock wheel that you tighten to prevent the clutch cable adjustment from moving. Loosen that wheel then you can turn the clutch cable adjustment in or out to adjust the clutch engagement and take up. For those bikes, you want to adjust it so that there is a small amount of slack in the clutch lever. Look at the "crack" where the lever pivots when you pull on it. Adjust the clutch cable by turning that adjustment in or out until you have just barely enough opening to slip a nickel edge into the very outside of that "crack" when you apply very, very light pressure to the clutch lever (just enough pressure to take the slack out of the lever). Tighten the lock wheel back into place and try it now. Also, make sure you are using a good, FIRM foot pressure to engage each gear. If you don't engage firmly enough or the adjustment is out, then it will pop out of gear. You notice it more on the lower gears because the lower gears allow the engine to send more torque thru the clutch, thereby providing more force to make it pop out of gear.

If this doesn't help, then take it to a shop to see if it's simple worn clutch disks (easy to replace on this bike) or if the gears have worn teeth in the transmission.

Nov 05, 2013 | 1999 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom

1 Answer

Engine shuts down when put in gear


Most likely needs a clutch cable adjustment.
Over time, the cable stretches, reducing "throw" of clutch, so it doesn't fully disengage.
Where the clutch cable meets the clutch lever is an adjuster.
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2011-yamaha-wr250f-wr250fa-handle-switch-lever/o/m144254sch681730
Items # 5 & 6
Adjust until you have about 1/16 - 1/8" free play.

Aug 13, 2013 | 2011 Yamaha WR250F

1 Answer

2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 stalls when put into gear


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty wiring to any safety switch.
2. Safety switches loose at the mounting point.
3. Faulty kickstand safety switch.
4. Failed kickstand safety switch circuit diode.
5. Stretched side stand spring.
6. Side stand not coming up far enough to disengage switch.
7. Faulty clutch lever safety switch.
8. Faulty neutral safety switch.
9. Clutch not properly adjusted.
10. Clutch plates sticking, forward lurch
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Stalls when put into gear
https://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49375
Kawasaki 2008 KLR650 Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2011 Kawasaki KLR650 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Mar 12, 2012 | 2011 kawasaki KLR 650

4 Answers

What's your problem?1995 yamaha virago 1100 that sometimes you you put into gear and immediately dies


The Clutch on some bikes will disengage the starter motor. Yamaha will not allow you to engage gear when the side stand is down. Hope this gives you some idea

Nov 27, 2011 | Yamaha Motorcycles

1 Answer

I just replaced my clutch cable, but now that I've put everything back together I have a problem. The bike will from neutral to first and back without the clutch lever pulled in. However it also...


Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
Hope to be helpful
Big Al

Jul 25, 2011 | 1993 Yamaha FZR 600

1 Answer

Clutch not disengaging when clutch lever is depressed.


Assuming the clutch cable is intact and adjusted properly at the handlebars, the normal things that would cause the clutch to fail to disengage are extremely dirty oil or that synthetic lubricant has been used in the gearbox instead of 10w40 motor oil. Synthetics can cause the cork on the fiber clutch plates to swell. This causes the clutch to stay engaged. Extremely dirty oil can also cause the clutch to fail to disengage. If the oil is dirty, change it then ride for 30 minutes and change it again to flush out the grit. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Feb 16, 2010 | 2004 Yamaha YZ 250

1 Answer

92 yamaha fzr 600r clutch lever sticks and clutch slips


Sounds like the bike has been doing wheeles and burnouts. As the clutch plates wear the cable needs adjusting. You have reached the end of the actuating cam. New plates are your best bet.

Jul 02, 2009 | 1992 Yamaha FZR 600

1 Answer

Clutch wont disengage properly


What kind of oil is in the crankcase? Wet clutches take a sprcial oil, noy motor oil. If oil is correct, Is the cable and release levers fully disengaging the clutch? There is an adjustment for the rod inside the clutcjh hub . That could be short stroking.

May 17, 2009 | 1985 Yamaha XJ 700 X Maxim

3 Answers

I have 2003 kawasaki kx 125 when you put it in gear with clutch in it jumps forward and dies. where do i start with this?


make sure clutch ,is disengaging properly when you pull in clutch lever,adjust lever until you have about 1/8" freeplay.if still not disengaging, you need to drain gearbox oil, take clutch cover off & inspect clutch pack, you may have friction plates sticking together.

Feb 18, 2009 | 2003 kawasaki KX 125

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