Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Testing Honda Coils and CDI boxes 88 Hurricane 600 No spark CBR Forum Enthusiast forums for Honda CBR Owners 414results for hurricane manual http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda CB Owners Manuals
exhausts are a dark art.......to gain maximum power ..they will need to be of a tuned length...and of certain diameter at certain points....
if your having them made by a reputible(sp) company,they should be abe to get you in the right ball park...
take into consideration groung clearance etc
The two main things an engine needs to run is fuel and spark. If your sure the two are ok then get a base line. Remove the spark plug. Does the engine turn over? If it does, check the intake manifold for cracks. If that is ok then suspect timing.
Sounds like lung failure rather than fuel, If it is lumpy at idle it is usually air/fuel mix may also be sucking air at carby vibration mount.Maybe a full test before replacing anything else will tell the story. see points below to concentrate on.
Check inlet and exhaust valve clearances, they are very finicky.
Secondly the fuel tap at tank sometimes gets shellac inside and restricts flow. have you done:
a) a fuel flow test?
b)cylinder compression test
c) Exhaust emission /flow test?
Air leak test at carburettor manifold mounts - Aerostart, ether spray or lpg sprayed at mounts while running. WARNING these are flammable so just quick bursts. If concerned fine mist of water from spray bottle will do the job. What you are looking for is a change in revs while spraying at joints.
There is no question, but sounds like it doesn't run with air box closed. It isn't getting enough air and that is usually caused by someone saturating the foam that covers the filter by too much oil. Remove filter thoroughly clean it, wash the foam with gas, let dry and then lightly coat foam with spray WD-40 instead of pouring motor oil on it.