20 Most Recent 1987 kawasaki ZL 1000 A1 Eliminator - Page 5 Questions & Answers


you can order one form any kawasaki dealer

kawasaki... | Answered on May 27, 2019


If the fuel isn't all over the floor, I'd be checking that your riding buddies aren't playing a prank. Otherwise, debris in inlet valve or bad valve or float.

kawasaki... | Answered on May 16, 2019


online search for area parts /distributor

kawasaki... | Answered on May 09, 2019


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kawasaki... | Answered on May 08, 2019


Hi, Jtom for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 30, 2019


Oh, nice bike. I had a 1971 model in the UK, reg was WTO 127J, it is still around according to DLA.

If it has three sets of points, as opposed to CDI, all the points must be clean and gapped. I used to carry 6 clean spark plugs in my pocket and on the bike. Leads and plug caps need to be in good condition.

kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 28, 2019


Hi, Alex if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to the headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
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kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 16, 2019


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kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 05, 2019


If you search on Google for workshop manuals Kawasaki 1033 1981 There are lots of them on there

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 29, 2019


Sounds like a neutral switch relay problem....check your relays and fuses..........

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 28, 2019


Try unplugging the Handle Bar Kill Switch.....Sounds like the CDI is grounded.....Make sure the Pick Up wire from the Engine case is plugged into the wiring harness...This is what triggers the CDI to fire the Spark Plug........

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 26, 2019


What do you mean by overloaded? Do you mead too high of RPM's? Floating the valves can result in the valves hitting a piston and bending one of them or worse.

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 20, 2019


Bikes of that age only need a few things to run.

Compression
Fuel
A spark at the right time

One of those three is defective?

Compression, check with a compression tester
Fuel, is it clean and fresh. Is it getting to the spark plug, it is wet with gasoline?
A spark at the right time. New spark plug and engine correctly timed. A nice fat blue spark if you put the plug against the cylinder head?

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 18, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
5. Faulty ignition coil or ignition / electronic module
6. Failed CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
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kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019

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