Don't do the gas down the spark plug thing. It's a bad idea. Do the following >
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well. < < READ CLOSELY > > Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road. Please rate this solution. Thanks!
Hi, Gary and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Scooter Troubleshooting Scooter won start All about Scooters gilera dan 125 wont start Any suggestions Gilera Runner 50 1997 Service And Repair Manual Gilera RUNNER VX 4T 125 2005 Parts http://absolutelyscooterparts.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf
acid overflow is caused by overheating, so there is a short someplace,disconnect the battery and neutralize the leaked acid with baking soda dissolved in water and remove the battery. (the short can even be internal, in the battery) Replace the battery with a new one,connecting a voltmeter between the negative terminal and its cable. (An ampmeter of t least 10 amps capacity would be better.) With the key off, the meter should read zero. a reading indicates a short to ground somewhere. Trace all wires, look carefully where wires go through holes or past edges for bare or burned wires. When the meter reads zero, you can turn on the ignition and gingerly touch the negative cable to the negative terminal and watch for a spark, it should be small, assuming the ignition is battery operated, not by magneto. Turn on the lights should cause a slightly larger spark. A big spark and dimming of the lights means there is still a big short you have to find. Otherwise, turn off the key , hook up the negative cable, firmly but easy to disconnect, and try the system.
Hi, Neal try spraying some belt dressing on the edges and I would love to help you further with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Head Gasket---HISS
11. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
13. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
14. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
15. Solid Lifters---TICK
17. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Seven ways to pinpoint that high pitched whining noise How to diagnose problem by the noises your bike makes https://scootergrisen.dk/scooterhjemmeside/download/gilera_runner_rstsp_servicemanual.pdf http://www.bellamoto.rs/upl/files/Runner%20ST%20125%20-%20200%20UPUTSTVO.pdf
Hi, Jmb76252 let me see if I understand you correctly you have taken a 125cc scooter designed for pleasure and around town commuting and excellent fuel mileage thrown a ton of money at it in aftermarket performance parts that may not be compatible with each other and expect a ground pounding, wheel standing, flaming burnout machine that it was never designed for in return? This type of R&D is way above my pay grade perhaps an appointment with the Gilera racing team would be in order. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
check your starter switch b/c most likely there is a shoft in the wire to the button...you should be able to change that and possibly the kill switch and it be good to vo if nit look at you ignition switch wjringas well
It is a 2 stroke there isn't any oil in your engine perse, basically your bike either runs premix fuel or it has a oil reservoir that injects oil in to the fuel mix. 2 strokes mix fuel and oil together in the crankcase, that is why 2 strokes are somewhat smokey. The oil that is injected or in the case of premix is what is used to lubricate the engines internals. So you won't be able to change the oil by draining it out of the engine block. If it has an oil reservoir you will need to top that up from time to time.