please check the water level in the battery and get it recharged and then check it for life test if its fine then get it reinstalled or get a new one, else look for the charging coil, wheather it is prducing voltage or not............ please let me know after getting it right
Everywhere I read is wrong. For Yamaha Cygnus-X 125cc rear wheel removal It is removed from the right hand side. Do not start dismantling the gear box side ! Remove 5 bolts of exhaust. Careful don't loose exhaust seal where it connects to engine. You may need friend to lean the bike over to access bolts underneath. 2. Remove main 24mm bolt on axle No need to loosen brake ! 3. Remove 3 bolts holding swing arm. That's the big triangular bit. 4. Pull off the swinging arm and on axle is special shaped washer. Note which way it comes off. 5. Pull off the wheel leaving brake shows behind.
Hi, Dale I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICK
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
17. Power Valves---CLINK---RATTLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
22. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
23. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
24. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
25. Solid Lifters---TICK
28. Starter Clutch---GRIND---WHIRR
29. Warning Lights---BEEP
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.roadstarraider.com/index.php?topic=37769.15 https://www.mybikeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4318 http://www.mediafire.com/file/ekm1dodyyin/08_Yamaha_Raider_SVC_Manual.pdf/file https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha https://usermanual.wiki/Yamaha/2011RaiderSOwnersManual.1156735012/help
Hi, Austin before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. The following is a list of usual suspects that will cause your bike not to turn over.
1. Ignition Switch is in the "OFF" position.
2. Ignition Switch is faulty.
3. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
4. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
5. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
6. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
7. FOB battery low or dead.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Faulty starter button.
10. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
12. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
13. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
14. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
15. Faulty ignition relay.
16. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
17. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum/technical-forum/electrical-electronics/4240-electrical-problems-bike-won%E2%80%99t-start https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIKyM2PAwSw http://www.werder.ee/Manual/XV1600.pdf https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha https://www.manualslib.com/manual/660125/Yamaha-Road-Star-Xv16a.html
Hi, Tito not sure what return line you are referring too if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and cracks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.r6-forum.com/threads/2006-r6-wont-idle-dies-without-throttle.413722/ https://www.reddit.com/r/motorcycles/comments/3m27ka/2007_yamaha_r6_wont_idle_more_info_inside/ https://www.manualslib.com/manual/656701/Yamaha-Yzf-R6-99.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha https://www.manualslib.com/manual/996565/Yamaha-Yzf-R6.html