Honda Motorcycles - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xrn58yenvBs
If you have clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder might need bleed air out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCj8QiIo4ss
Remember when bleeding brakes keep the master cylinder full of oil or you will suck air back in line. Should have 2 hole in bottom of master cylinder. Make sure holes are not plugged. One the fluid goes out the other the fluid comes back in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP195yHIsIk
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/hydraulic-clutch-problems-88-honda-shadow.92072/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2eMTnMhFew



Honda... | 35 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Mattias it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads, etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component, etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.cbrxx.com/threads/fi-warning-light.23109/
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/81369-fi-light-stays-on/
https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=1879
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/677765/Honda-Cbr1100xx.html

Honda... | 32 views | 0 helpful votes


Sounds like it may have a fuel restriction. Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Look for damaged fuel lines or a line that is close to an exhaust system. Possible a fuel pump going out. Does it do this when you are low on fuel and not when the tank is full? If so then the pump is overheating because the fuel is too low and not helping to cool the pump.

Honda... | 27 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Michael it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads, etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component, etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/16-fi-light-how-to-read-error-codes/
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=313667
https://www.carlsalter.com/all-motorcycle-manuals.asp
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://powersports.honda.com/downloads/owners-manuals

Honda... | 24 views | 0 helpful votes


try adjusting the clutch. maybe its dragging

Honda... | 25 views | 0 helpful votes


I cleaned up the dreadful text-speak and translated to British English!

The answer is

Fork oil per rod:
108 ML SAE 10W

Make sure you drain the oil after the scooter has been on a run and drain it completely.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/bike-datenbank/honda-ses-125-dylan/jf10/1922

Honda... | 29 views | 0 helpful votes


It may due to the loose screw, go to the mechanic.

Honda... | 29 views | 0 helpful votes


ASK HONDA WEBSITE OR GOOGLE IT

Honda... | 46 views | 0 helpful votes


Cycle salvage shops in ur state etc hav parts. Archway in stlouis is huge. U cud try takn that switch apart to solve or just hotwiring when u start it. Buy a clymer or haynes manual for totalbike rebuild

Honda... | 31 views | 0 helpful votes


Snug, not loose. Between 6 to 9 ft lbs. torque on the bolts. Higher torque will strip aluminum threads.

Honda... | 44 views | 0 helpful votes


Start taking it apart, cleaning, greasing oiling and putting it back together. Empty all the fuel and replace with fresh. Change the oil and filter. Change the spark plugs. you could have bought a carburettor repair kit. Videos and spares...

https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Honda+Recon+tm+250cc

Honda... | 33 views | 0 helpful votes

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