Honda Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Tom before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vtxcafe.com/threads/2005-1300r-vtx-will-just-click-after-with-new-battery.85443/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MlY-0L50x2c
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/722750/Honda-Vtx1300s.html#product-VTX1300R
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://owners.honda.com/assets/ownerlink/model/own_man/powersports/2004/2004_vtx1300c.pdf

2005 Honda VTX... | Answered on Jul 23, 2020


Hi, Saul before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, look for, corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-93/f2-turn-signal-problem-i-need-help-108388/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ob4JWFQ6aTc
https://www.cyclechaos.com/images/9/90/Honda_CBR600F2_91-94_Service_Manual.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owning_a_honda/owners_manuals/motorcycles/CBR600F-1994.pdf

Honda... | Answered on Jul 23, 2020


Sounds like it may have a fuel restriction. Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Look for damaged fuel lines or a line that is close to an exhaust system. Possible a fuel pump going out. Does it do this when you are low on fuel and not when the tank is full? If so then the pump is overheating because the fuel is too low and not helping to cool the pump.

Honda... | Answered on Jul 09, 2020


Hi, Michael it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads, etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component, etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/16-fi-light-how-to-read-error-codes/
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=313667
https://www.carlsalter.com/all-motorcycle-manuals.asp
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://powersports.honda.com/downloads/owners-manuals

Honda... | Answered on Jul 08, 2020


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xrn58yenvBs
If you have clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder might need bleed air out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCj8QiIo4ss
Remember when bleeding brakes keep the master cylinder full of oil or you will suck air back in line. Should have 2 hole in bottom of master cylinder. Make sure holes are not plugged. One the fluid goes out the other the fluid comes back in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP195yHIsIk
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/hydraulic-clutch-problems-88-honda-shadow.92072/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2eMTnMhFew



Honda... | Answered on Jul 06, 2020


try adjusting the clutch. maybe its dragging

Honda... | Answered on Jul 03, 2020


Hi, Mattias it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads, etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component, etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.cbrxx.com/threads/fi-warning-light.23109/
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/81369-fi-light-stays-on/
https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=1879
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/677765/Honda-Cbr1100xx.html

Honda... | Answered on Jul 01, 2020


I cleaned up the dreadful text-speak and translated to British English!

The answer is

Fork oil per rod:
108 ML SAE 10W

Make sure you drain the oil after the scooter has been on a run and drain it completely.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/bike-datenbank/honda-ses-125-dylan/jf10/1922

Honda... | Answered on Jun 20, 2020


Buy the service manual and look it up or ask your dealer.

1997 Honda VTR... | Answered on Jun 19, 2020


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Check the starter switch. There is a hidden switch inside the starter switch. When the starter switch is pressed, this hidden switch disengages the headlight. This is to ensure that the starter gets maximum power when starting and not partially robbed by the headlight. Depending on the version, this switch would be connected to the black/red & blue/white wires.

A way to confirm is to partially jumper these 2 wires.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

2004 Honda CBF... | Answered on Jun 18, 2020


It may due to the loose screw, go to the mechanic.

Honda... | Answered on Jun 10, 2020


Hi, Bri69cho for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
HELP FUEL PUMP NOT PRIMING
VFR 800 Fuel Pump Problem Help
VFR800 INTERCEPTOR 2002 HONDA SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL Download Manuals... $15
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VFR800 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2005 Honda VFR... | Answered on Jun 05, 2020


Hi, Emackie2004 for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2005 Honda VFR 800 fuse box location Google Search
6 Gen Fuse Box Location
2002 Honda VFR800 VFR800A Interceptor Service Repair Workshop Manual... $15
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VFR800A 2005 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2005 Honda VFR... | Answered on Jun 05, 2020

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