Honda GL 1500 SE Gold Wing - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Billy and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1990 Honda GL... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


Hi, Vince the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts enquiry. You can also try American Honda 866-864-5211
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Honda GL... | Answered on Aug 17, 2019


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1995 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 06, 2019


Hi, Brad for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Hyosung, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1993 Honda GL... | Answered on Jun 21, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1994 Honda GL... | Answered on Jun 05, 2019


Hi, Roy for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1995 Honda GL... | Answered on Apr 29, 2019


On my GL1200ltd I had a lot of tranny noise. Out of desperation, I changed to Amsoil 10W40 motorcycle oil. I cured tranny noise, sticky clutch issues and even shifted better.

1999 Honda GL... | Answered on Apr 20, 2019


Hi, James for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1995 Honda GL... | Answered on Feb 02, 2019


Hi, James probably not the ignition circuit cut-off system comprising of the side stand switch, clutch switch and neutral switch has the following functions:
a. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is up, but the clutch lever is not pulled.
b. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, but the side stand is still down.
c. It cuts the running engine when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is moved down.
Periodically check the operation of the ignition circuit cut-off system according to the following tests.
With the engine turned off:
1. Move the side stand down.
2. Make sure that the engine stop switch is set to "RUN"
3. Turn the key to "ON".
4. Shift the transmission into the neutral position.
5. Push the start switch if the engine does not start the neutral switch may be faulty.
With the engine still running:
6. Move the side stand up.
7. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
8. Shift the transmission into gear.
9. Move the side stand down if the engine does not stall you may have a faulty side stand switch.
After the engine has stalled:
10. Move the side stand up.
11. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
12. Push the start switch if the engine does not start you may have a faulty clutch switch.
This check is most reliable if performed with a warmed-up engine.
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1991 Honda GL... | Answered on Oct 28, 2018


Hi, Darrell before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. On early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. Finally, most tail light wiring harnesses run under the rear fender held in place by spot welded clips. Worn out rear shocks or lowered suspension can bottom out causing the rear tire to come in contact with the wiring harness, rubbing the insulation off, exposing the bare metal inner core, allowing it to break or short out.
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1996 Honda GL... | Answered on Sep 25, 2018


The click u hear means your neutral isn't the problem, it means your new battery is trying to start the engine, however the power isn't making it to the starter. check the battery cables for good connection in the ends of the wires and at the start relay (the positive wire from the battery goes to the start relay that may need replacing) also from the start relay that you hear clicking down to the starter.make sure cable and nuts that hold them are clean in good shape. to get the neutral lite to come on the side stand doesn't do it, the shift lever does. you can be sure you are in neutral when the bike can roll without the clutch being pulled.If the bike is in neutral and the lite doesn't come on then replacing the bulb or sensor might be necessary.

1994 Honda GL... | Answered on Sep 24, 2018


Hi, Harry for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2000 Honda GL... | Answered on Sep 14, 2018


Hi, Jim usually the "C" would stand for custom, for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Honda GL 1500 SE... | Answered on Aug 15, 2018


Hi, Gary a Bank Angle Sensor-Tilt Sensor-Tip Over Sensor are electrical components usually mounted around the battery area. These sensors shut down the engine when the motorcycle leans or tilts pass a specific amount of degrees from vertical. The degree angle varies from make-model-year but normally it's around 45 degrees. Recycling the ignition switch from off to on to off with the bike in the vertical position generally will reset the sensor so your engine will start again, you should refer to your owners manual for specific instructions if recycling does not work on your machine.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1998 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 18, 2018


Hi, Dave you need to perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging and it must be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test you may have cursory readings of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries have this issue more so than lead-acid types.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. The meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your multimeter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe multimeter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up the multimeter to the battery set it to DC volts and start the engine if multimeter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With the multimeter set to the ohms scale, with one lead grounded, touch an alternator pin ohmmeter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With both leads touching alternator pins, multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the multimeter set on AC volts scale, both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPM. If not replace the rotor.
12. Check for excessive wattage load from the headlight
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 04, 2018


Hi, John for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
GL1500 Aspencade Reverse Cable Routing Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
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2000 Honda GL... | Answered on Jun 29, 2018


Hi, Bruce before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. On early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2000 Honda GL... | Answered on Jun 28, 2018


Hi, Tom before testing any electrical component in the Reverse Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. The reverse electric motor fuse was blown.
2. Reverse button stuck in the depressed position.
3. Run/off switch in the off position.
4. Bike not in neutral.
5. Faulty relay, reverse actuator, solenoid, regulator module,
6. Wire connectors in the reverse system faulty due to corroded, bent, broken, loose, retracted or missing wire pins and sockets.
7. Reverse cables not properly adjusted.
8. Faulty reverse lever components.
9. Reverse lever not in the on position.
10. The side stand is in the down position.
11. The reverse motor has failed and needs an overhaul.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1996 Honda GL... | Answered on Jun 16, 2018


Hi, Ian here are some options for lowering your bike depending on your needs and wallet:
1. Rear shock lowering kit.
2. Front fork lowering kit.
3. Shorter rear shocks.
4. Shorter front forks.
5. Thinner padded seat.
6. Smaller diameter wheels.
7. Lower profile tires.
Please be aware that some of these options or a combination of options will require a shorter kickstand or your stock one modified.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1998 Honda GL... | Answered on May 10, 2018

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