Harley Davidson Motorcycle Repair Questions, Solutions and Tips - Vr2020

Harley Davidson Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Patrick before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. On early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. Finally, most tail light wiring harnesses run under the rear fender held in place by spot welded clips. Worn out rear shocks or lowered suspension can bottom out causing the rear tire to come in contact with the wiring harness, rubbing the insulation off, exposing the bare metal inner core, allowing it to break or short out.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2007 Harley... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2000 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Shotofgold and the usual suspects are:
1. Contaminated or faulty speed sensor.
2. Faulty turn signal module.
3. Corroded, broken or loose connector pins/sockets in the wire harness between the speedometer and the ECM or TSSM and the sensor.
4. The speedometer unit has failed.
5. Speedometer instrument fuse has blown.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2000 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Chuck you need "FIVE" things in order for a cylinder to run properly:
1. FUEL: in order to validate your not getting fuel spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner and hit the starter button, if it fires up and runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. Multi carb banks should be bench "SYNC"
2. SPARK: remove the spark plug and with it connected to the spark plug cable ground the threads to something metal you should see a bluish white spark if not you have a faulty spark plug, spark plug cable, ignition coil, condenser, CKP, ECM, sensor or the wiring in between.
3. COMPRESSION: you must have at least 80-100 PSI for most bikes, multi-cylinder engines should be within 10-15% of each other if not perform a leak down test you may have a burnt or bent valve or hole in the piston or broken rings.
4. CAM TIMING: confirm your timing marks are aligned to see if the cam chain or adjuster are worn out and the chain has skipped a couple teeth.
5. IGNITION TIMING: on older bikes check to see if your points have not closed up, timing plate has not become loose and confirm with a timing light for proper retard and advance functions, on newer bikes where timing is controlled by an ECM and is nonadjustable check you CKP, TPS, MAP, O2, sensor or its counterpart for integrity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Rgjscass before inspecting your points you will need to remove the spark plugs and timing hole plug if you have electric start only, you will need to get the rear wheel off the ground about 2 inches and put the bike in first gear for bumping the engine over. Refer to your service manual for the proper timing marks on your flywheel for your particular year and model as Harley made several changes over the years. Remove the points plate cover, the 2 points plate stand-off studs, the points and points plate, the center points cam bolt, and finally, the mechanical advance mechanism paying close attention to the locator pin on the back side of the advance mechanism and the corresponding machined slot on the end of the camshaft that it fits into. Inspect the advance mechanism carefully look for weak, almost or broken springs, worn advance pins, and wobbly weights due to egg-shaped mounting holes, replace defective parts as necessary, lubricate flyweights mounting holes/pins/springs with a small shot of WD-40. If you have any doubts about the integrity of the advance mechanism replace it with a new one. Next carefully inspect the points look for pitted contact surfaces and refurbish with a point file or 220 grit or coarser folded sandpaper, if necessary, inspect the rubbing block for excessive wear if in doubt about condition replace with new points and new condenser, I recommend Blue Streak Points Kit. Carefully install advance mechanism, points cam with flat side behind the limit pin, and center bolt tighten to 70-inch pounds. Install points plate, points, and condenser, snug stand-off screws and using an ice pick or similar device stake the points plate on the edges in three different spots, this procedure is very important as it will keep the plate from becoming eccentric during timing procedure. Next bump the engine over until the points rubbing block is on either the fat or skinny cam lobe and insert a .018" flat blade feeler gauge in between the points slightly loosen the points adjusting screw and set the point cap so you can remove the gauge with a slight drag, bump the engine over to the other cam lobe and measure what that gap is because they are supposed to be the same, but rarely are. Now comes a little finesse on your part you need to bump the engine over to the lobe with the widest gap on the points and take a measurement in between the points forget about the .018", using a small hammer and a flat punch lightly tap the center bolt from the top once this will lower the cam lobe closing the point gap and raise the other cam lobe thus opening the points slightly more, then bump the engine over again to the other lobe a take another measurement, you need to get cam lobe measurements identical to within .004" or better this is "VERY" important as it determines when the front and rear cylinder fire. When you get the measurements as identical as possible example .012" on one lobe and .010" on the other adjust your points on any lobe to 018" and lock it down. All this may seem petty but I can assure you it makes all the difference in the world when it comes to starting, idling, and performance, trust me. Now that you have the spark plugs firing correctly to each cylinder you need to statically adjust when they fire, to do this get the front cylinder advance timing mark dead center in the timing hole window by bumping the engine with the rear wheel, at the top of the left crankcase for Big Twins the right crankcase side for Sportsters, spray Brake Kleen on the mark to remove any oil film let dry then paint the flywheel and timing mark with red nail polish and let dry, this will help you greatly when it comes time to use a timing light. Next bump the engine slowly until the top dead center mark is in the timing hole dead center, loosen the standoff studs and rotate the points plate until the instant the points start to open, use a test light for accuracy clip the line to ground and wedge the point of the light to the electrical connector on the points turn on the ignition and the kill switch to run, when the light comes on the points have started to open snug down one stand-off stud. Next turn off the ignition and put the bike back in neutral, lower the rear wheel back on the ground, drain the oil tank into a clean container, replace 16 oz. of the oil, this is plenty to lubricate the engine and limit the oil and breather blast that comes out of the timing hole when using a light. Next use a sandwich bag or Saran Wrap and a rubber band over the end of the timing light lens, connect the timing light to the front cylinder spark plug with the bike in the upright position start the engine and let idle for 1 minute, set RPM'S to 2,000 have someone remove the timing plug being careful not to be in direct line of breather/oil mist spray, hold timing light directly in front of the hole you should be able to see the nail polish front cylinder advance timing mark, if not loosen the stand-off stud and adjust the timing plate until the red nail polish come into view, you want the mark dead center in the hole, when you get that position lock down both timing plate standoff studs and shut off engine, replace timing hole plug and remaining engine oil, adjust idle to 1,000 RPM and if necessary air-fuel mixture screw on carburetor. For more information about your issue please and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have nice a day.
How to set the points and timing on an old Harley Big Twin
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Mark and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Harley/comments/35afwv/bike_just_randomly_dies_out_while_riding_and
Bike shuts off while riding WTF Harley Davidson Forums
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Crashhawk1 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system relay or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Fuel tank empty
11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
15. Faulty fuel pump.
16. Faulty pressure regulator.
17. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
18. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
19. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2004 Harley Touring Service Manual pdf
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2004 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Skipglide the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Bestwaytrans and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump.
24. Faulty pump relay or fuse.
25. Faulty ignition system relay.
26. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
27. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
28. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
29. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2007 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor has oil in the bowl due to excessive oil in pre-mix.
14. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
15. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
16. Fuel filter clogged.
17. Old or contaminated fuel.
18. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
19. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
20. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
21. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
22. Incorrect valve timing.
23. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
24. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
25. Incompatible performance parts.
26. The control module may be in "LIMP" mode
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Engine misfire and hesitation Harley Davidson Forums 84 to 99 Harley Softail Service Manual pdf http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/vehicle/lookupForm free owners manual Instant Repair Help over the Phone to speak to me personally $4

1993 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Tgolovio oil leaking from your air cleaner is caused by oil carryover from the engine. For whatever reason, the breather system is not separating enough oil mist and air from the piston downstroke. There are cheap and quick easy fixes and there are more expensive ones. First, make sure your breather hoses are not dry-cracked-pinched if they are ok you can start by trying the following:
1. Run your oil level half way between the add and full mark when hot.
2. Run oil breather lines from the head into a TEE fitting below carb/induction module then a single line into a mini filter or PVC valve under the frame.
3. Purchase Arlen Ness Super Sucker.
4. Replace umbrella valves and realign oil pump.
5. Replace piston rings and follow proper driving seating procedures
6. Upgrade oil pump and cam plate.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2000 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Peter for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2010 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Christine a proper clutch adjustment for big twins starts by squirting some silicone spray or Brake Kleen into the top of the rubber boot on the clutch cable and sliding it back exposing the cable adjuster. Loosen the jam nut and turn the adjusting screw all the way in so your clutch lever has excessive slop. Remove the Derby cover, loosen the jam nut on the clutch pack adjuster screw and screw it in until light resistance is felt against the clutch rod then back the adjusting screw out 3/4 of a turn and tighten the jam nut.
Check primary fluid level and replace Derby cover unless you are running an early model "Dry Clutch" leave the Derby cover off. Go back to the clutch cable adjuster and back it out until there is 1/8" free play between the clutch lever and the bracket perch. This is correctly accomplished by pulling the clutch cable end outward with your right hand and pulling the clutch lever in with your left hand and modest pressure on both hands to eyeball the free play. Tighten cable adjuster jam nut and slide rubber boot back to its original position.
On Dry Clutch Models you need to square the pressure plate by adjusting the 3 stud nuts on the outside of the pressure plate so that when the clutch lever is pulled in the pressure plate shoots "STRAIGHT" out and disengages evenly.
On Sportster models, the procedure is the same except the clutch cable adjuster screws directly into the primary cover with a jam nut. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to Adjust Clutch Cable Lever on Harley Davidson Law Abiding Biker...
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2011 Harley... | Answered on Oct 15, 2018


Hi, Mark and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Open-short-ground in the wiring between the alternator to the ignition module/CDI box to the ignition coil.
5. Faulty pins or sockets in the plug connectors.
6. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module/CDI box.
8. Faulty pulse coil.
9. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
10. Faulty ignition switch.
11. Faulty run/off switch
12. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
13. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 15, 2018


Hi, Tim and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump.
24. Faulty pump relay or fuse.
25. Faulty ignition system relay.
26. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
27. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
28. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
29. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Turning but won start 82 FXR Twin Forum Harley Davidson Forums
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 14, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 14, 2018


Hi, Johnny 84172 is not an error code it is the current PPU (pulses per unit) number that has been downloaded to your ECM and is used to calibrate your speedometer. If you change tire size and or gearing your speedometer will become inaccurate and you need to recalibrate the speedometer, this can be done at your local Harley dealer or you can go online and purchase a calibration tool that is plug n play for around $100 there is a difference between stock EFI calibrations that may be causing some of the speed signal related issues you encounter. The stock calibrations for 2004 & later model years will write a PPU Value to the ECM. The current stock calibrations for 2003 & earlier models do not. The PPU Value is what controls the speed displayed on the speedometer, which in turn controls the turn signal cancellation. If you have downloaded a 2004 & later stock calibration into an ECM it should not be used on a 2003 or earlier motorcycle; the speedometer and turn signals will not function correctly even after updating the VIN and calibration to match the vehicle. SPEEDOMETER TROUBLE CODES - TROUBLE - WIRE COLOR
d01 - speed sensor power output shorted low - red
d02 - speed sensor power output shorted high - red
d03 - not used
d04 - not used
d05 - speed sensor return shorted high - white
d06 - speed sensor return shorted low - white
d07 - not used
d08 - speedometer power overvoltage - orange/white
d09 - speed output shorted high - white/green
d10 - speed output shorted low or open - white/green
5 digit number - speedometer pulses per unit
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Diagnostic Code PPU 84172 on Dyna Harley Davidson Forums Harley Davidson Dyna Glide Twin Cam 88 Service Manual
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
http://mybikemanuals.com/harley-davidson/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-owners-manuals
Instant Repair Help over the Phone to speak to me personally $4

2001 Harley... | Answered on Oct 09, 2018


Hi, Ernie for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Removal of front fender on Heritage Softail Classic Harley Davidson Forums
Remove install front wheel tire fender from Harley Davidson Motorcycle Law...
2017 Harley Softail Service Manual pdf
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
2017 Harley Softail Owners Manual pdf
Instant Repair Help over the Phone to speak to me personally $4

Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 08, 2018


Hi, Scott you have no fuses only circuit breakers underneath the speedometer housing in between the fuel tanks, before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for, corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, for corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1988 Harley Davidson Softail Custom fuse box location Google Search
1988 Harley Davidson Softail Custom wiring diagram Google Search
84 to 99 Harley Softail Service Manual pdf
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/vehicle/lookupForm free owners manual
Instant Repair Help over the Phone to speak to me personally $4

Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 08, 2018

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