20 Most Recent
Questions & Answers
Windshield wipers only work on high and they don't
Try this pinpoint test.
PINPOINT TEST B: WINDSHIELD WIPERS INOPERATIVE OR ERRATIC ON LOW, HIGH SPEED WORKS
B1 CHECK WIPER OPERATION
* Run wipers on High.
* Do wipers hesitate when passing through the PARK position?
GO to B2 .
GO to B4 .
B2 CHECK WIPER MOTOR GROUND
* Check motor ground at motor connector and mounting screws.
* Is motor ground OK?
GO to B3.
SERVICE wiring at motor connector or tighten mounting screws to improve ground.
B3 CHECK WIPER MOTOR
* Perform wiper motor current draw test in high speed.
* Is current draw OK?
GO to B4.
SERVICE windshield wiper motor as required.
B4 CHECK WINDSHIELD WIPER GOVERNOR
* Set wiper switch in LOW.
* Unplug governor connector. Check for battery voltage at Circuit 993 (BR/W) and ground at Circuit 57 (BK).
* Are both circuits OK?
GO to B7 .
GO to B5 .
B5 CHECK GROUND CIRCUIT
* Check Circuit 57 (BK) for open.
* Is circuit OK?
GO to B6 .
SERVICE for open circuit.
B6 CHECK WIPER SWITCH
* Check Circuit 993 (BR/W) voltage at wiper switch.
* Is voltage present?
SERVICE for open Circuit 993 between windshield wiper governor and wiper switch.
SERVICE wiper switch.
B7 CHECK CIRCUIT 58 (W)
* Reconnect windshield wiper governor to main wiring .
* Unplug wiper motor connector.
* With wiper switch at LOW, check Circuit 58 (W) for battery voltage at the windshield wiper motor .
* Is voltage present?
CHECK for malfunctioning windshield wiper motor . PERFORM low speed current draw test. SERVICE windshield wiper motor as required.
GO to B8.
B8 CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT
* Check for open in Circuit 58 (W) between windshield wiper governor and windshield wiper motor .
* Is circuit OK?
Replace windshield wiper governor .
SERVICE as required.
Let me know,if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Vr2020 ' and have a nice day!!
on Dec 20, 2018
Heater core replacement
If it is necessary to remove the heater assembly, the cooling system must be drained before removing the heater core.
When a heater core leaks, a new heater core is installed or the old one repaired.
- The heater housing is usually under the dash and must be removed to gain access to the heater core.
- Procedures for replacing the heater core vary with the year, make, and model of car. It threfore necessary to consult the manufacturer's repair manuals for the proper procedure for replacement.
The heater housing is disassembled to get to the heater core.
- Remove the access panels(s) or the split heater/air conditioning case to gain acess to the heater core.
- Remove the heater coolant hoses.
- Remove the cable and/or vacuum control lines (if equipped).
- Remove the heater core securing brackets and/or clamps.
- Lift the core from the case. Do not use force. Take care not to damage the fins of the heater core when removing.
- To reinstall the heater core, reverse the removal steps.
When the heater core leaks and must be repaired or replaced, it is a very difficult and time-consuming job primarily because of the core's location deep within the firewall of the car. For this reason always leak test a replacement heater core before installation.
on Jul 17, 2018
Horn intermittenly toots but not a complete honk. Lights flash on dash. as if the alarm is going off, only the horn as stated, just toots or tunks. I had to remove the relay under the hood to stop thi
There are wires for the alarm that are touching each other it could be at the horn or headlights these kind of things happen from wires rubbing the steering column or the alarm module at the mounting or from an accident that previously had taken place and the wire harness was drilled through to fix a dent or the harness was fractured during impact and now high moisture content causes the arcing of the wires so I'm not there and I also have no info on what vehicle this is the make of the truck would help but also before I forget the lighting control module if this is a ford ?you posted in the ford section// both the horn & lights can have the same circuit wire for the alarm please post back with specific info on the vehicle I did the best I could but this was very vague on description all trucks are not the same electrical engineering schematics thanks oh by the way I'm a ford taxi mechanic in N.Y.C.with 50+years of experience in everything and I'm the one who can help you here but we have to narrow down the possibilities here so you need to write down everything you have done and answer these questions ok (1)are you the original owner/for the accident part this is important the wire harnesses go down the inner fenders on certain trucks and cars and also run through the front where the bumper support is and across to the power distribution box on the inner fender a front end collision would damage the harness at the turning point into the engine compartment and also along the ac condenser and along the fenders on both sides so if you don't know because your not the original owner then we must take a rag and wrap it around a magnet so you don't scratch the paint and slide it down the fenders any loss of magnetic pull will indicate that there is body dent filling compound at that spot and also drilled holes to use the dent puller slide hammer and could be the problem from either drilling through the harness by a knucklehead or the now drilled hole on the inside has jagged edges that are cutting through the wires from road vibration also investigate across the front from both bumper brackets on the turns in and to the disribution box (2) is the alarm factory installed? (3)was any work done around the truck inside or out and now the problem started? (4)do you sometimes think you smell a electrical burning smell inside?if so check the steering column wires all the way down and pay close attention to the adjustable points where the column moves up and down once you've done all these we can go further take your time go slow so you don't miss anything and write it down for reference that we both know what you did so far I'm currently doing the same thing on a crown victoria that caught fire because of this exact same thing it started in the fender from an accident and was a previous repair before we got the car so please look closely for your own benefit ok thanks post back with more info stephen
on Dec 30, 2017
1996 Ford Explorer Headlights flicker and clicking noise.
Where was the clicking noise heard ? in the instrument panel , behind the dash ? Center ,left , right side etc.... possible dimmer module problem . Looking at wiring diagrams . Does the vehicle have auto lamps , daytime running lamps etc.... Do you know what wiring diagrams are ? Free one's here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
enter vehicle info. year , make , model , engine size . Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on instrument panel lamps and or head lamps . Check the circuits , find the source of the clicking an you most likely found the problem .
on Dec 27, 2017
Anti-theft? Engine lock out?
If you parked it up in June 2009, it has been dormant for 8 years. The vehicle should have been started up and brought to operating temperature at least once a month and the battery should have been connected to a trickle charger.
You need to reset the antitheft system as you did not do that. When you connected the battery, the key needed to be in the ignition but not turned on.
Disconnect the battery leads for at least 2 hours. Hold the negative and positive leads together for 5 minutes. This fully drains any residual current in the electronics. Put the key in the ignition! Connect the positive terminal. Connect the negative terminal in one swift movement. Wait 15 minutes for the chip in the key and the chip in the ignition switch to be paired to the ECM.
The only thing that concerns me is the radio, but it may also need a security code entering.
on Nov 04, 2017
Not finding what you are looking for?